Sunday, May 18, 2008

Prosecco Region - Italy

Yesterday a few friends and I set out for Italy's Prosecco wine region. We were planning to taste test as well as pick up a few bottles of Prosecco for some upcoming celebrations. Prosecco is very common in Italy and is often used as an aperitif or for celebrations. It's a sparkling wine which can sometimes be confused as Champagne. Though I'm a fan of Prosecco, likening it to Champagne is not a fair comparison. For one thing, Prosecco is usually not fermented in the bottle or matured for years. It's typically a wine which undergoes its secondary fermentation in a large, reinforced tank and bottled under pressure. It also has a one year shelf life which makes it hard to store and usually needs to be consumed fairly quickly. The aroma and taste can also be far more fruity, reminiscent of ripe pears and sweet apples.

Although the Prosecco wines of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene are famous all over the world, there are few tourist signs to take visitors to this scenic region. In fact, you won't find any signs until you're within about 10 kilometers of these towns! Strangely odd, there are far more signs pointing drivers towards places famous for radicchio than for the two famous wine towns. The Prosecco production zone extends along the hills that gently slope down the south side of the Prealpi Trevigiane towards the Piave river. This area has about 3,500 hectares under vines, at a height of between 50 - 500 metres above sea level. The climate is known and appreciated for its proverbial mildness. All the towns are all close to each other along a route of about 50 km known as the famous Strada del vino Prosecco. Few tourists to Venice actually ever visit or follow the Strade del Prosecco - the Prosecco wine route - which is a shame as the area is breathtaking beautiful and a fierce rival to most of the Tuscan landscapes. The wine route was Italy's first, established in 1966, that links vineyards and wineries, dramatic vistas and historical sites. Many of the wines are of DOC quality here - not the low lying plain vines which hosts the poorer quality table wines you'll find a local restaurants, but instead the higher quality and renown wines of Italy that are exported around the world.

One special area of the Prosecco region is highlighted for a wine of special quality. This wine comes from Cartizze zone (and takes the same name) called "Cartizze." In the "Cartizze" zone, found in the heart of Valdobbiadene, in October and towards the end of the season, the Prosecco grape is completely ripe, thus guaranteeing an intense concentration of perfumes and smells, and ensures a taste that is light, fresh but intense. The basic wine is allowed to ferment naturally, until only a trace of natural sugars is left (which helps to conserve it). Subsequently, the wine is left out in the winter cold, which removes the tartaric acid and makes it clear. In Spring, special yeasts are added to aid secondary fermentation under pressure and at low temperature. Just enough sugar is also added so that this secondary fermentation produces the required pressure. When the fermentation is complete the only sugar that remains is that required to give the wine its particular characteristics. The wine ferments at a temperature of around 15°C and after approximately 15 days reaches the desired pressure. At this point re-fermentation is blocked by means of refrigerated vats. The yeast gradually falls to the bottom of the vat and after about 8 - 10 days at this temperature the wine is transferred, without loss of pressure, into another vat and is then bottled immediately. The classic "Prosecco" type bottle is used, which is green or black to give maximum protection from the light. Each bottle is rinsed before being filled, corked and labeled. The bottles are then left in a cool and dark place, at constant temperature, which allows the wine to mature. After 30 - 40 days the wine is ready for delivery. The Prosecco DOC if kept in a fresh and dark environment, maintains its particular characteristics for 12 months or more. (The bottles should be rotated every 5/6 months if kept on bottle racks or shelves). Best served at temperatures of between 10° - 12° C, and it is perfect to drink with delicate starters of either fish, meat or vegetables. It is particularly well adapted for the traditional marinated tidbits of the Veneto, but is equally delicious with steamed or grilled fish, or with soups or any light first course

We tried many types of Prosecco and it seems Bisol Cartizze is by far my favorite. Figures, it’s the most expensive, which is pretty funny especially when you consider how inexpensive it is compared to the States. The prices ranged from £3-12 a bottle or £54 a case for the most expensive compared to the price in the States for about $36-40 a bottle and $240.00 a case. They even sold a DOC Bisol Cartizzi Prosecco magnum (equivalent of two bottles of wine—51 ounces) for only £20 which is an unbelievable price for such a quality wine. Also remember the larger the bottle, the slower the wine ages. A magnum is the perfect size for Prosecco or any quality red wine, as it ages the wine slowly, but not too slowly. So after much tasting and conversation my friends, the Polizzi's, made me promise to share a special magnum of DOC Cartizze with them at Sarah's wedding someday. Sounds like a great idea Polizzi’s but 30 or more years seems like an awful long time to wait for such a great Prosecco! :)

Although we made it to the Prosecco region, tasted and purchased a few different types or wine, we left a bit disappointed because we didn't get an opportunity to see all the places we had initially planned on visiting. Once again something got lost in the proverbial "black hole of cultural translation". Let me explain.. Like typical Americans we decided to go on Sat so we wouldn't be rushed by daily obligations and would have plenty of time to check out a good portion of vineyards before the dreaded reposo (Italian lunch break from 12:00- 3:00 in which all businesses are closed). So even though we took reposo into account when planning our trip, it seems as though we forgot some of the other typical Italian business practices we've all come to know and love during our time spent here in Italy. As soon as we arrived into Prosecco region it became very evident that most of the vineyards were closed on Saturdays. You're probably thinking right now - Are you kidding me?. I'm not! Yes Saturday, which is probably the biggest money making day for most tourist attractions in the States, but it's just not the case over here... It could be... It should be with Italy's plummeting economy, but sadly it's not... As I've shared in past blogs most Italians live life to the fullest and treasure their time off. I think for most Italians if it was possible to do all business during Holiday’s/Vacation time with food and wine in hand, it would be their ideal situation. It's amazing! You hardly ever see businesses stay open just to make an extra buck or two. In fact, unlike the States, most businesses are only open M - F from 10:00 -12:00 and 3:00 - 5:00 and closed on local market days. The have also mastered the art of "Doppo Domani" - which translates "Sometime After Tomorrow"... Most business owners also tend to be extremely laid back and not overly interested in making any sort of sale. If you like their product then buy some, if not "Va Bene"- It's all good!

So as usual it’s always an adventure living and traveling abroad. Just when I think I’ve finally grasped the European culture I’m once again left scratching my head in wonder and amazement. It seems as though there is always more to learn. But don’t worry, we’ve already planned another trip in the future during the week. This time we’ve collected some numbers and have decided to call a few places in advance to be sure they’re open and expecting us! My Italian friends would be so proud! :)

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2 comments:

Dyllan's Dependents said...

I love reading your posts. I feel like sometimes I am the tourist and am listening to an expert tour guide. I wish I had a chance to do the prosecco region tour with you guys. Sounds like so much fun. I learned a lot about my favorite drink from your outing. Bring some back when you come this summer.
love ya,
liz

Chasing Quintessence said...

Seeing all the pictures made me remember how beautiful and green Northern Italy is. I almost missed being there, until I read the part about the vineyards being closed and I suddenly remembered all the inconveniences of life in Italy ;). Enjoy the Prosecco! Can't wait to learn about and see pics of the vineyards.
Shemy