Sunday, June 15, 2008

Aquileia, Italy - Roman Ruins



Aquileia is an ancient Roman city at the head of the Adriatic at the edge of the lagoons, about 10 km from the sea, on the river Natisone, the course of which has changed somewhat since Roman times. Aquileia was founded as a colony by the Romans in 180/181 BC along the river,south of the Julian Alps but about 8 miles north of the lagoons. Akylis, the colony served as a frontier fortress at the north-east corner of Italy and was intended to protect the Venetians, faithful Roman allies, during the Illyrian Wars and act as a butress to check the advance of other warlike people, such as the hostile tribes of Carni and Istri. In fact, Aquileia was founded on a site not far from where Gaulish invaders had attempted to settle in 183 BC. Aquileia was connected by road with Bologna probably in 173 BC; and subsequently with Genova in 148 BC by the Via Postumia, which ran through Cremona, Bedriacum and Altinum, joining the first-mentioned road at Concordia.

This city was proclaimed by the Vatican as one of the five official Jubilee cities in Italy and numerous remnants of its glorious past are found throughout the city, especially along the Via Sacra, which was the location of the Roman forum. However Aquileia's Roman golden age was not quite over as the town also flourished under the Patriarchs that ruled over Friuli Venezia Giulia in the middle ages. This prosperity all though only short lived, produced some of the most imposing monuments from their rule. The Patriarchs later moved to a much safer location at the Castle in Udine but left behind some of the most beautiful mosaic floors in Italy.



Aquileia, Italy - Basilica of Aquileia


This quiet and sleepy town that lies in Friuli Venezia Giulia close to the Adriatic was once a powerful Roman city, a center of trade and a military stronghold. One of the main sights besides the ruins is the Cathedral, Basilica of Aquileia. It's one of the most important edifices of Christianity. It's a flat-roofed basilica erected by Patriarch Poppo in 1031 on the site of an earlier church, and rebuilt about 1379 in the Gothic style by Patriarch Marquad.

The Basilica complex lay somewhat outside the center of Aquileia in Roman times. The main body of the church is made up of two Paleochristian Halls, erected during the 4th century BC by the bishop Teodoro. These halls are both linked to a central corridor that was originally used for baptismal ceremonies. A baptistery was a later addition complete with baptismal font. The Basilica is a must for mosaic lovers as this church houses the largest and oldest Christian mosaic floors still in existence - dating from the 4th century. The mosaic's consist of The Good Shepherd, Jonah and the whale, and various fish related motifs. The Basilica is laid in the shape of a Latin cross that is elongated as far as the remains of the baptistery. The interior houses three naves divided by a colonnade that continues as far as the transept that opens on to three apses that are beautifully decorated with frescoes. You can enter the “Crypt of the Frescoes” from the Basilica and find wonderful Byzantine works of art. You can also access the “Crypt of the Excavations” that runs from the Basilica to the ground beneath which the Poppone Bell Tower was erected. Here we can find remains dating back to three different periods, one pertains to a 1st century private residence, the second to a Paleochristian meeting room and the third to a sizeable Paleochristian Basilica that was destroyed during the Hun invasion.

The Campanile (bell tower), tradition would have it, was built by the Patriarch Poppone in 1031 as a watchtower. The bell is 73 metres (240 feet) tall and preserves the remains of a mosaic from the Paleochristian meeting room. Near the Monastery is the “Museo Paleocristiano” that houses the remains of floor mosaics from a local Paleochristian Basilica. Among the numerous artefacts on display are funerary inscriptions, mosaic shards and relics that date back to a period between the 4th and 5th centuries and Mediaeval times. The Museo Civico del Patriarcato, near the Piazza del Capitolo houses wonderful wood and precious metal relics, sculptures, inscriptions, holy vestments and liturgical scripts. Every year, historical and archaeological exhibitions are hosted on the top floor of the building.


The facade, in Romanesque-Gothic style, is connected by a portico to the Church of the Pagans, and the remains of the 5th century Baptistery. The interior has a nave and two aisles and t The local museums span the areas history from the Roman and Paleo-Christian times to the Patriarchate. The wooden ceiling is from 1526, while the fresco decoration belongs to various ages: from the 4th century in the St. Peter's chapel of the apse area to the 11th century in the apse itself. The amazing frescoes in the church's crypt tell of the legend of St. Mark preaching here at the request of St. Peter.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Wine Tasting - Prosecco Region



My friend Linda and I once again headed out to Prosecco Region of Italy with an AF Spouse's Group bus trip. Very quickly I was reminded why I dislike group bus trips so much. It's just impossible to get a large group from one place to another in a short period of time. To be honest, my time is very valuable and I dislike endless wasted time away from my family.

The trip started off fine until we arrived at the first vineyard. We received a lovely tour and were given a wine glass and cute pouch to put it in which made our hands free for wine tasting. Great idea - I guess? Well after wine tasting the owner, who had not been the friendliest man, decides we should now all pay 5 euro for the glass/pouch. - Are you kidding me? - Number one plenty of wine was purchased and number 2 who wants just one wine glass anyway? I prefer to have a full set of nice glasses! I'm not one who collects beer or shot glasses so there was no interest in keeping the souvenir glass. I would rather buy another bottle of wine for 5 euro. So after much bickering between the owner and our tour guide and the owner's dramatic refusal to load the wine we'd already purchased on the bus until we paid for the glasses, our tour guide finally won the battle and we ended up keeping the pouch and glasses. What a trip! After it was all said and done our tour guide told us it was the principle she was fighting for not the glasses. Too funny! I really believe the Italians love the drama of it all. The sad part was that it ended up cutting into our lunch time and made us way off of schedule.

As for lunch, the restaurant was quaint and the food was just ok. What made lunch seem even longer was our lunch companions. Linda and I got stuck sitting with some serious lushes. They were downing the wine and the conversation became more and more bazaar. Linda and I just kept looking at each other in amazement from across the table. After lunch our next stop was another beautiful vineyard. This time the owner was very gracious, but the wine was not as good, and in the end we ended up staying way to long. In fact, the whole day seemed to be pretty tiring. I think the next time I decide to visit the Prosecco region it will just be me, a few friends, and a trusty map of the local vineyards. Ciao for Now!